Embed and make for all This week’s episode dives into the idea of a perfect three-watch trio with a budget of $10,000. Yes, we’ve done this before but it hasn’t been since episode 33, so we thought it would be a good idea to update our picks for 2022 (especially now that Rolex is out of the question). As you can imagine, it’s a smorgasbord of divers, a murder of GMTs, and a few oddball vintage gold watches. Ten grand is a big pile of money, so it’s definitely fun to dream about how we might reset our collections.
Just catching up with this. Listening to the watch(es) James foreshadows at 29:30 made me smile as I think it is out as of now and I think definitely what Jason has been specifying for travel-fun-water GMT
Great episode as always! Have always been hoping for a revist of this topic. The original episode is one of my all-time favorites when I was first getting into watches and I learned so much from it. From my current collection and excluding rolex it would be:
@Jason - I found and bought the no logo Heimdallr mesh strap on their Aliexpress store (shipped from the US no less) it arrived in Canada yesterday and it is far better than I expected, even after James’ recommendation. Still in stock; I checked yesterday while pondering buying a second one.
Fun episode! Good down the rabbit hole on the Omega GMT stuff. $10K would be this for me:
Seiko Alpinist SNJ085 ~ $2,800
Seiko 6139 Pogue (blue) ~ $1,000
Seiko SLA037 ~ $6,200
The Alpinist works in a bunch of situations, strap or bracelet can completely change it up. The 6139 is a great chronograph with great pedigree. And the SLA037 is basically a hi beat Grand Seiko diver, but one that's not 44+ mm. The 62mas size and shape is just so good.
In reality, I'd go with an SPB143, an SPB259, and the 6139 (which matches what I actually own), and use the balance of the $10K to buy either a Miata or 2nd gen RX7.
My daily wear is the Seamaster 2535.80 GMT. It is a ton of watch for the price point. A great diver with an early ETA coaxial movement, then you add the jumping hour hand, flyer GMT function. You could not ask for more. I wore it for 5mons in Kenya and I never once thought about needing another watch. A great sleeper if anyone is in the market. I bought mine 2 years ago for around $3k.
Fun fun episode. Kudos to you Jason for being true to yourself and saying “no” to dress watches, “no” to chronos (mostly), and going with a trio of divers. And James, a groovy little gold dress watch is an awesome inclusion.
My thoughts in general: with so many great watches out there, I suggest going “pre-owned” from a reputable dealer and looking for watches that are maybe a bit forgotten but still awesome. I’ve basically done that over the last few years and here is where I landed:
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, first generation, like a 2201.50.00. Either size, rubber or metal bracelet, whatever lights you up. I got a 42.5mm on rubber. The twisted lugs, arrow hands, solid caseback, and open “6” and “9” all call back to great Omegas of the past, but also hang together as a modern cohesive whole. Makes a perfect apex dive/tool watch. Definitely a strap monster. It’s also a Bond Watch. Around $4000.
Omega Globemaster. Kind of an overlooked but excellent dress and city-travel watch. Not a GMT, but it has a jumping-hour movement that makes crossing time zones a snap. The pie pan dial is elegant. The baton markers are clean and have superb lume for telling time at 3am in a dark hotel room. Looks nice under a sportcoat-tie or a polo-windbreaker. $4000ish was the case in 2019 and still looks sorta-possible.
Ahhhh, the chrono. I picked up a garden-variety Speedy Pro off of Timezone back in 2006 for $1500 or something, but I think those days are over. If I had it to do now, I would probably go for the new Hamilton [Khaki Pilot Pioneer Flight Chrono Manual Asymmetric Long Name Whatever] that they just released - the MoD “fab four” reissue. These are $2k or so. An alternative is their [Similar Long Name] version that they released 7 or 8 years ago. Includes an exhibition case back, a date (boo), auto-wind, and not-quite-as-authentic hands. Still available new for < $1000.
Hey guys, congratulations for another great episode.
What about the Aquadive Bathysphere 100 GMT? Would be less cost intensive for a Diving GMT and you get a variety of colors. As others mentioned before 10k is a lot, i wouldnt need it, i'll then stick with my blue pelagos and one vintage pick which would be a 4502-7000 King Seiko, maybe i'd have it restored by the lapinist, as i am obsesses with this model currently.
Great episode! I actually did purge the collection. I kept my fathers and grandfathers vintage watches for sentimental reasons, but ended up with:
A Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue and a Cartier Tank Solarbeat (still waiting…). The third I don’t know. I am thinking the Nomos Club Campus Future Orange. And a bunch of natos 🙏🏻
If I were starting from scratch, I'd like to think I'd get something like a Santos, but in reality I'm more likely to get another Seamaster, or chase down a 2201.50 Planet Ocean if I can find one in good nick.
I see now. It showed in Pocketcasts for me at ~9:30 AM ET yesterday. If you have any more data for me (location, ios/android, etc), please let me know. substack doesn't play by the old RSS rules (from what I can tell) and it seems to be an issue for Pocketcasts but none of the other major apps. I may be switching to Overcast as that seems to be the best one these days.
Just to put a bow on this, this latest episode just dropped in my Pocketcast at 715am eastern Saturday morning. No worries! I jumped back to Google Podcasts to help with this.
SBGN003 for me. It is such an underrated watch. It’s been with me all over the country for work and all over the trails and climbing. I couldn’t ask for a more reliable pair of gear. I do feel sorry for the Zaratsu but at least I’m having fun.
Glycine Airman No 1 is that budget-friendly GMT option that checks a lot of boxes in an iconic format to me, vintage vibes included. I don't think that it would crack my personal top 3, but comes to mind anytime this hypothetical comes up.
It’s a cool watch with some history for the brand at an approachable price. It’s a great size at 37.5mm and those lugs need to be seen in person to fully be appreciated.
Those ARE nice. 80 hour power reserve to boot! I think some people avoid them though as they are 44mm. If they dropped them to a mid sized 41mm, there would probably be a waiting list!
They don't wear large. They're pretty thin for a GMT (13.3mm) and a 50mm lug to lug is reasonable. I wear a 42mm PO a lot and it wear quite similar to that.
Shame we can't post pictures here but this is mine on a Mido Orange rubber - https://flic.kr/p/2ndnF54
I really rate mine. It's a thoughtfully designed watch.
Just catching up with this. Listening to the watch(es) James foreshadows at 29:30 made me smile as I think it is out as of now and I think definitely what Jason has been specifying for travel-fun-water GMT
Great episode as always! Have always been hoping for a revist of this topic. The original episode is one of my all-time favorites when I was first getting into watches and I learned so much from it. From my current collection and excluding rolex it would be:
Grand Seiko SBGW253 or Cartier Santos Medium
Tudor Black Bay 36 Black Dial
Seiko SPB153
@Jason - I found and bought the no logo Heimdallr mesh strap on their Aliexpress store (shipped from the US no less) it arrived in Canada yesterday and it is far better than I expected, even after James’ recommendation. Still in stock; I checked yesterday while pondering buying a second one.
Thanks for letting the TGN community know, picked one up for a great price. Cheers from a fellow Canadian 😊
Fun episode! Good down the rabbit hole on the Omega GMT stuff. $10K would be this for me:
Seiko Alpinist SNJ085 ~ $2,800
Seiko 6139 Pogue (blue) ~ $1,000
Seiko SLA037 ~ $6,200
The Alpinist works in a bunch of situations, strap or bracelet can completely change it up. The 6139 is a great chronograph with great pedigree. And the SLA037 is basically a hi beat Grand Seiko diver, but one that's not 44+ mm. The 62mas size and shape is just so good.
In reality, I'd go with an SPB143, an SPB259, and the 6139 (which matches what I actually own), and use the balance of the $10K to buy either a Miata or 2nd gen RX7.
Yes, I love Japanese stuff...
This was a fun one! Thanks guys.
My daily wear is the Seamaster 2535.80 GMT. It is a ton of watch for the price point. A great diver with an early ETA coaxial movement, then you add the jumping hour hand, flyer GMT function. You could not ask for more. I wore it for 5mons in Kenya and I never once thought about needing another watch. A great sleeper if anyone is in the market. I bought mine 2 years ago for around $3k.
Fun fun episode. Kudos to you Jason for being true to yourself and saying “no” to dress watches, “no” to chronos (mostly), and going with a trio of divers. And James, a groovy little gold dress watch is an awesome inclusion.
My thoughts in general: with so many great watches out there, I suggest going “pre-owned” from a reputable dealer and looking for watches that are maybe a bit forgotten but still awesome. I’ve basically done that over the last few years and here is where I landed:
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, first generation, like a 2201.50.00. Either size, rubber or metal bracelet, whatever lights you up. I got a 42.5mm on rubber. The twisted lugs, arrow hands, solid caseback, and open “6” and “9” all call back to great Omegas of the past, but also hang together as a modern cohesive whole. Makes a perfect apex dive/tool watch. Definitely a strap monster. It’s also a Bond Watch. Around $4000.
Omega Globemaster. Kind of an overlooked but excellent dress and city-travel watch. Not a GMT, but it has a jumping-hour movement that makes crossing time zones a snap. The pie pan dial is elegant. The baton markers are clean and have superb lume for telling time at 3am in a dark hotel room. Looks nice under a sportcoat-tie or a polo-windbreaker. $4000ish was the case in 2019 and still looks sorta-possible.
Ahhhh, the chrono. I picked up a garden-variety Speedy Pro off of Timezone back in 2006 for $1500 or something, but I think those days are over. If I had it to do now, I would probably go for the new Hamilton [Khaki Pilot Pioneer Flight Chrono Manual Asymmetric Long Name Whatever] that they just released - the MoD “fab four” reissue. These are $2k or so. An alternative is their [Similar Long Name] version that they released 7 or 8 years ago. Includes an exhibition case back, a date (boo), auto-wind, and not-quite-as-authentic hands. Still available new for < $1000.
Hey guys, congratulations for another great episode.
What about the Aquadive Bathysphere 100 GMT? Would be less cost intensive for a Diving GMT and you get a variety of colors. As others mentioned before 10k is a lot, i wouldnt need it, i'll then stick with my blue pelagos and one vintage pick which would be a 4502-7000 King Seiko, maybe i'd have it restored by the lapinist, as i am obsesses with this model currently.
Greetings from Austria,
Matthias
Great episode! I actually did purge the collection. I kept my fathers and grandfathers vintage watches for sentimental reasons, but ended up with:
A Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue and a Cartier Tank Solarbeat (still waiting…). The third I don’t know. I am thinking the Nomos Club Campus Future Orange. And a bunch of natos 🙏🏻
My 3. Speedmaster Pro Hesalite, Sinn 105 UTC, Doxa Sub 300t
Excellent choices! I concur!!
If I were starting from scratch, I'd like to think I'd get something like a Santos, but in reality I'm more likely to get another Seamaster, or chase down a 2201.50 Planet Ocean if I can find one in good nick.
When I listen to Grey Nato. I feel like I'm with old friends. Thanks for e everything
The episode is up, correct? My Pocketcast still hasn't downloaded the latest one.
There was a note about this in a prior episode. Seems that Substack and Pocketcast don't get along.
The episode still hasn't downloaded. I'm going to give it a little longer and maybe download the Google app, although I wasn't a big fan of that one.
Hey, thanks for this note. What app are you using? This week it was like 17 minutes for Google and Apple, and like 2.5 hours for Pocketcasts.
I don't know when it pops up, but I've never seen it there before noon eastern time. This week included. That's why I subscribed to both feeds.
I see now. It showed in Pocketcasts for me at ~9:30 AM ET yesterday. If you have any more data for me (location, ios/android, etc), please let me know. substack doesn't play by the old RSS rules (from what I can tell) and it seems to be an issue for Pocketcasts but none of the other major apps. I may be switching to Overcast as that seems to be the best one these days.
Michigan, Android pocketcast. Got main feed at 8:15 today. Subscriber probably a few hours later.
Just to put a bow on this, this latest episode just dropped in my Pocketcast at 715am eastern Saturday morning. No worries! I jumped back to Google Podcasts to help with this.
I should also note it is the Supporter feed.
Pocketcast app, Android 12, Pixel 5. I downloaded the Google Podcast app and it popped right up.
Grand Seiko SBGN005 - $3200
Tudor BB58 silver - $4400
Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TVA1 - $1650
SBGN003 for me. It is such an underrated watch. It’s been with me all over the country for work and all over the trails and climbing. I couldn’t ask for a more reliable pair of gear. I do feel sorry for the Zaratsu but at least I’m having fun.
No idea what my other two would be.
BB 925 is such a good choice. what a weird and special watch. If/when they discontinue, people will wise up and line up.
Can't argue, i got the first two.
Glycine Airman No 1 is that budget-friendly GMT option that checks a lot of boxes in an iconic format to me, vintage vibes included. I don't think that it would crack my personal top 3, but comes to mind anytime this hypothetical comes up.
Great watch, really long lugs
For me and my love of moderately priced Seiko watches:
Seiko SARG009
Seiko SPB183
King Seiko KS44-9990
Love the inclusion of a KS! What draws you to that one in particular?
It’s a cool watch with some history for the brand at an approachable price. It’s a great size at 37.5mm and those lugs need to be seen in person to fully be appreciated.
Can't argue with that! My favorite might be the 45-7001; again, the size, plus the hi-beat and that case shape!
A suggestion for a dive flyer GMT - the Mido Ocean Star GMT, can be had for under $1000 USD. I wear mine a lot.
I don't love the 24 markers on the face of the Omegas, they've done a few of those with Chronographs as well if you want to go wild.
Those ARE nice. 80 hour power reserve to boot! I think some people avoid them though as they are 44mm. If they dropped them to a mid sized 41mm, there would probably be a waiting list!
They don't wear large. They're pretty thin for a GMT (13.3mm) and a 50mm lug to lug is reasonable. I wear a 42mm PO a lot and it wear quite similar to that.
Shame we can't post pictures here but this is mine on a Mido Orange rubber - https://flic.kr/p/2ndnF54
I really rate mine. It's a thoughtfully designed watch.