It’s the return of the brand focus episode! For #199 the TGN boys are talking all about Citizen. From the brand’s early days, to Jason and James’ history with specific models and a look at several picks from their current lineup – if you said we don’t chat enough about Citizen on TGN, this one’s for you. We’ve got divers, pilots, Promasters, and even Star Wars-themed models as we look at both North American and global offerings (because Citizen is a huge brand and our home countries don’t get all of the good stuff).
The 8110 chronograph flybacks are super cool - I have one with blue dial, orange hands.
Doesn’t have the history of the Seiko 6138 pandas, but it is slimmer because the 8110 is a smaller movement. Came out 4 yrs after the 6138. Case is 38m wide.
Also much cheaper - can pick them up for 500 A$. Pretty good for a vintage automatic chronograph
The 33.5mm promasters are great kid's watches, durable and no fuss. Fits down to about 4.75" - 5" wrist on the smallest setting. My daughter loves hers and always has it on any time she's in or on the ocean. Consistently runs a couple of seconds fast per month so easy to correct when you roll over the date.
Jason - here is a trick when using NATOs that may be 1mm smaller than the lug width. I put a piece of black shrink wrap on the springbar. I don't shrink it, but just slide the spring bar in. That way I don't have that shinny bar peaking out at me from the edge of my NATO.
Netflix alert. Most intense TGN movie since "touching the void" or "into thin air" This one is on saturation diving in the North Sea. Gives me a better appreciation for tusker's adventures. Last Breath (2019) https://www.netflix.com/title/80215139 P.S. Love how Jason and James can throw together a great episode in 2 hours. Looking forward to the embargoed version.
I was listening to James describe the Brycen Eco-Drive BL5250-02L and I thought, "That sounds exactly like the one I have." So, I clicked on the show notes and, yup, that's the one I have. Though I have the version that came on the titanium bracelet and not the leather strap.
I bought this watch back in the early- to mid-2000s. I think I paid around $300 or $350 for it at either Macy's or Nordstrom at the Mall of America. At that time, I was not a collector of watches and was looking for a new daily wear that had a different case shape compared to the Eco-Drive chrono I had at the time.
Why I was drawn to this watch: Fully titanium including the bracelet w/ a perpetual calendar. Considering most consumer goods made with titanium were still a bit on the spendy side, I thought this was a great bargain. The dual time feature makes it a great travel watch. Light AF, too.
I have a 6" wrist and this is a large watch relatively speaking for that wrist size. But, I'm fine with how it looks on me due to its stubby lugs and how it sits on my relatively flat wrist. Plus, I'm just used to how it looks on me.
While I tend to wear mechanical watches more often than not these days, this one still makes for a great grab and go watch due to it being quartz and having a perpetual calendar. Usually, the only adjustment it requires is when we've changed between DST and standard time.
I have it in a watch box that has a lid with a glass window so it always gets charged while sitting in the box.
My only minor complaint is that the crown has a habit of turning while it's sitting on my wrist. I've had moments where I've looked down to find that it's set itself into chronometer mode.
Thoroughly enjoyed the Citizen episode. Perhaps my memory is faulty, but Citizen was huge in the 80s. "How the world tells time." The humorous commercials where a girl says, "I didn't know you were a pilot?" and he sheepishly looks at the camera. Younger me saved like crazy to get my Citizen Wingman. Still enjoy it to this day. 👉 https://www.instagram.com/p/Cfe8S0WuiI9/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Cool episode. I don’t have a ton of experience with Citizen, but I do appreciate what they are. Eco Drive is undeniably cool if you’re not a movement snob.
The only Citizen I ever owned was an NY-0040. They’re not without some military associations. They were once issued to the Italian Marina Militare. Unique watch, but it didn’t stick and I sold it on to a guy who was a recent divorcee who told me “yeah, I just divorced from my miserable ex-wife so I’m looking to take up scuba, go on some adventures, and have fun for the first time in years.” I hope it worked out for him.
Here's one for you - not currently available, but a classic. I bought mine to wear on flyfishing trips that require combat/adventure wading (high probability of falling into the river). Its the BN0000-04H. It has a monocoque case (the back doesn't open); 300M WR; Eco-Drive; and makes a perfect low-profile watch on a Chevron or Perlon strap. These were issued by the UK Royal Navy around 2010 or so. I think they were withdrawn because they didn't keep running when stored in the dark for ~1 year. Not an issue for me. I love mine!
It looks like the the Citizen Challenger Diver reboot (Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver NB6021-17E) is available on a few Japanese sites. It looks great, though, I still haven’t found any hands on reports. The rubber strap version is going for $760 -ish.
Unfortunately the weather held back the really fast times that it was looking like some cars would hit based on practice and qualifying. It did give us a crazy save by Rod Millen in his old "Tacoma" that he brought out of retirement. Shown at the beginning of this video and then followed up by the full run:
Great episode as ever ! Have to say the Super Titanium 200 metre GMT is a great watch - I have the black dialled version on rubber, and it’s a true Flyer GMT - the hour hand is independently adjustable - great watch and recommended
Another great episode. I haven’t dipped my toes into Citizen divers...yet.
James, I hope you have a great Canada Day! When I was growing up it was called Dominion Day, but perhaps that’s way too old school.
As to old school, if you look at the case back of your vintage Bulova, there should be an alpha-numeric that tells you the year of manufacturing. If it is a 1940s watch, the Alpha should be K, 50s L, etc. Pre-war Bulovas force you to go to the serial number inside the case back.
There are plenty of eccentric Bulova blogs out there, but that should do the trick. And, any good horologist should be able to tune that watch absolutely to accuracy.
Finally, if my experience is any roadmap, you can expect your wife to snatch that watch sooner or later because it is cool, vintage and as Goldilocks said “Just right.” This is a reason why my wife has and wears one of four Bulova watches whenever she wants a “dress watch.”
The 8110 chronograph flybacks are super cool - I have one with blue dial, orange hands.
Doesn’t have the history of the Seiko 6138 pandas, but it is slimmer because the 8110 is a smaller movement. Came out 4 yrs after the 6138. Case is 38m wide.
Also much cheaper - can pick them up for 500 A$. Pretty good for a vintage automatic chronograph
Possibly sacrilege, but did anyone see that the Promaster Diver is on sale for Amazon Prime Day (ending today)? $155 USD
Really like my Promaster Tough. Only wish it was in titanium. I know the Ray Mears model is Ti, but the dial is a little too cartoonish for my tastes.
The Citizen Campanola line is interesting but hardly ever gets any coverage. Any thoughts?
The 33.5mm promasters are great kid's watches, durable and no fuss. Fits down to about 4.75" - 5" wrist on the smallest setting. My daughter loves hers and always has it on any time she's in or on the ocean. Consistently runs a couple of seconds fast per month so easy to correct when you roll over the date.
Jason - here is a trick when using NATOs that may be 1mm smaller than the lug width. I put a piece of black shrink wrap on the springbar. I don't shrink it, but just slide the spring bar in. That way I don't have that shinny bar peaking out at me from the edge of my NATO.
Netflix alert. Most intense TGN movie since "touching the void" or "into thin air" This one is on saturation diving in the North Sea. Gives me a better appreciation for tusker's adventures. Last Breath (2019) https://www.netflix.com/title/80215139 P.S. Love how Jason and James can throw together a great episode in 2 hours. Looking forward to the embargoed version.
I was listening to James describe the Brycen Eco-Drive BL5250-02L and I thought, "That sounds exactly like the one I have." So, I clicked on the show notes and, yup, that's the one I have. Though I have the version that came on the titanium bracelet and not the leather strap.
I bought this watch back in the early- to mid-2000s. I think I paid around $300 or $350 for it at either Macy's or Nordstrom at the Mall of America. At that time, I was not a collector of watches and was looking for a new daily wear that had a different case shape compared to the Eco-Drive chrono I had at the time.
Why I was drawn to this watch: Fully titanium including the bracelet w/ a perpetual calendar. Considering most consumer goods made with titanium were still a bit on the spendy side, I thought this was a great bargain. The dual time feature makes it a great travel watch. Light AF, too.
I have a 6" wrist and this is a large watch relatively speaking for that wrist size. But, I'm fine with how it looks on me due to its stubby lugs and how it sits on my relatively flat wrist. Plus, I'm just used to how it looks on me.
While I tend to wear mechanical watches more often than not these days, this one still makes for a great grab and go watch due to it being quartz and having a perpetual calendar. Usually, the only adjustment it requires is when we've changed between DST and standard time.
I have it in a watch box that has a lid with a glass window so it always gets charged while sitting in the box.
My only minor complaint is that the crown has a habit of turning while it's sitting on my wrist. I've had moments where I've looked down to find that it's set itself into chronometer mode.
Here's a pic of it on my wrist:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CdYrdDbLIEx-8tOWngECGj269GodyBwBpWNL_g0/
Great episode. You motivated me to re-strap my Citizen. Originally it was black and dull, rather low quality strap. Now... I fell in love again.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cfdp7QoIMoC/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Thoroughly enjoyed the Citizen episode. Perhaps my memory is faulty, but Citizen was huge in the 80s. "How the world tells time." The humorous commercials where a girl says, "I didn't know you were a pilot?" and he sheepishly looks at the camera. Younger me saved like crazy to get my Citizen Wingman. Still enjoy it to this day. 👉 https://www.instagram.com/p/Cfe8S0WuiI9/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Cool episode. I don’t have a ton of experience with Citizen, but I do appreciate what they are. Eco Drive is undeniably cool if you’re not a movement snob.
The only Citizen I ever owned was an NY-0040. They’re not without some military associations. They were once issued to the Italian Marina Militare. Unique watch, but it didn’t stick and I sold it on to a guy who was a recent divorcee who told me “yeah, I just divorced from my miserable ex-wife so I’m looking to take up scuba, go on some adventures, and have fun for the first time in years.” I hope it worked out for him.
Here's one for you - not currently available, but a classic. I bought mine to wear on flyfishing trips that require combat/adventure wading (high probability of falling into the river). Its the BN0000-04H. It has a monocoque case (the back doesn't open); 300M WR; Eco-Drive; and makes a perfect low-profile watch on a Chevron or Perlon strap. These were issued by the UK Royal Navy around 2010 or so. I think they were withdrawn because they didn't keep running when stored in the dark for ~1 year. Not an issue for me. I love mine!
It looks like the the Citizen Challenger Diver reboot (Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver NB6021-17E) is available on a few Japanese sites. It looks great, though, I still haven’t found any hands on reports. The rubber strap version is going for $760 -ish.
For those interested the full 9 hour Pikes Peak livestream is available on the Mobil 1 YouTube page.
https://youtu.be/d7TxbhwsGQI
Unfortunately the weather held back the really fast times that it was looking like some cars would hit based on practice and qualifying. It did give us a crazy save by Rod Millen in his old "Tacoma" that he brought out of retirement. Shown at the beginning of this video and then followed up by the full run:
https://youtu.be/sN3VaqBIc4s
Great episode as ever ! Have to say the Super Titanium 200 metre GMT is a great watch - I have the black dialled version on rubber, and it’s a true Flyer GMT - the hour hand is independently adjustable - great watch and recommended
Gents,
Another great episode. I haven’t dipped my toes into Citizen divers...yet.
James, I hope you have a great Canada Day! When I was growing up it was called Dominion Day, but perhaps that’s way too old school.
As to old school, if you look at the case back of your vintage Bulova, there should be an alpha-numeric that tells you the year of manufacturing. If it is a 1940s watch, the Alpha should be K, 50s L, etc. Pre-war Bulovas force you to go to the serial number inside the case back.
There are plenty of eccentric Bulova blogs out there, but that should do the trick. And, any good horologist should be able to tune that watch absolutely to accuracy.
Finally, if my experience is any roadmap, you can expect your wife to snatch that watch sooner or later because it is cool, vintage and as Goldilocks said “Just right.” This is a reason why my wife has and wears one of four Bulova watches whenever she wants a “dress watch.”